Klipper with ABL, All Metal Hotend, Huge Upgrade to Your KP5L
As an old school maker, I do love my old friends, the KP3S my home and the KP3S Pro, KP3S Pro S1 and KP5L at office for my daily use. We spend a lot of time and have so much memory on them. I will not give up on them as long as they were still working fine.
Actually, we’ve been using Klipper on them since the early 2022. And we still provide update to all of our non-Klipper models.
You can find them in
Today I’m going to show you how to upgrade your KP5L with all metal hotend, use Klipper with ABL on KP5L, or both.
Patrt 1 Things you need
--The CHC heating core provides faster and more stable heating and can heat up to 340 ℃, which makes materials like ABS become possible. The max temperature of the original one is 260 ℃.
--This kit fit your Titan Extruder perfectly and uses titanium or dual metal heatbreak for better heat insulation.
--The high flow rate CHT nozzle will boost the extrusion of your printer and it is much more durable than the original nozzle.
Besides, you can also get some zip ties to arrange the cables.
Part 2 Install the New Hotend
The upgrades take two parts, replacing the original hotend kit and install the new one, and install the the 3D Touch. The first part is for those who wants to use the new hotend kit under the stock firmware and for those who uses Klipper but doesn’t want a 3D Touch.
2.1 Install the new hotend kit
The new hotend kit takes the same way to connect as it is on the KP3S, you can check the below tutorial for more details:
But the KP5L does have an adapt board on the left side, we can connect the new hotend kit from there.
2.1.1 Remove the stock hotend kit
Remove some screws to open the left side box, you will see the adapt board in there. Disconnect the heating tube and thermistor sensor, take them out from the hole, you can get the whole hotend kit removed.
The “TH0” and unnamed port on its right are the targets, just disconnect them.
2.1.2 Modify the Cables
You will find the CHC heating ring does not fit the adapt board, which is it cannot connect to that “unnamed port”, so you need to modify the cable, unless you want to skip the adapt board and connect it to the mainboard.
Just cut the old cable, keep its port, then cut the new heating ring cables and leave a proper length. After that connect them as below photo.
Remember to use some heat shrink tubes or electric tapes to fix the joints tightly. The new hotend kit has too long cables, keep it proper length, otherwise the cable arrangement will be a problem.
2.1.3 Install the Adapt board back
After that, connect those two cables to the adapt board as below photo and install the adapt board back.
2.1.4 Test the new hotend kit
Connect the new hotend kit, then turn on the printer and preheat the nozzle. If everything’s right, it should heat up as before. Then you can use a L shape wrench to tight the nozzle and install it to the extruder.
Remember to tight the nozzle when the hotend it is heating, and keep the length proper among the nozzle, heat sink, and nozzle, otherwise it might have a filament leaking issue.
2.1.5 Install the extruder and arrange the cables
After that, install the extruder back and arrange the cables. Get some zip ties, it will help you a lot. If you also install a 3D Touch as the photo do, keep the 3D Touch able outside the chord is better.
Part 3 Change setting for the new hotend
In this part, we will show you how to modify the settings both in the stock marlin firmware and Klipper firmware. Just choose the part for your need.
3.1 Under the stock firmware
First, get the stock firmware from the below link:
KP5L Stock Firmware: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmGcVrncIH3ZgU3KOyL2GBeK_Mqu?e=ikudnu
After that, open the “robin_nano_cfg.txt” file, find the “TEMP_SENEOR_0” field, change the “HEATER_0_MAXTEMP” to 340.
Then flash the text file only, the new settings will start to affect.
3.2 PID Tuning in MatterControl
Visit http://www.mattercontrol.com/ , then install the “MatterControl” software. Then open the printer and connect it to your PC. Add the KP5L as a custom printer, click to “connect”.
Choose the “Baud Rate” as “15200” and “15200”, then you will be able to connect the printer.
After that, enter the command “M303 E0 S200 C8” in the Terminal. PID tuning will start automatically.
A few minutes later, you will find the results as the below photo shows.
Save the settings and be ready to copy it to the “robin_nano_cfg.txt” file.
Change the “PIDTEMP” settings into the latest one, then flash the file. The upgrade on your KP5L is all set.
3.3 PID Tuning in Klipper firmware
The following steps requires the latest “all-in-one” “printer.cfg” with ABL features. If you are still use the individual files, go modify those settings in “extruder.cfg”
Go the klipper dashboard, open the “printer.cfg”, then modify as the photo does.
Once you do, click “SAVE & RESTART” to reboot Klipper and KP5L.
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
Then enter the below command in to the “console” field.
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245
The results will come out after a few minutes, just enter “SAVE_CONFIG”, the PID settings will be saved automatically.
Part 4 Install the 3D Touch on KP5L
You can check the following tutorials to install it on your KP5L, too. The new “printer.cfg” will be upload soon. It has no much difference than it is on the KP3S.
How to Enable 3D Touch on the KINGROON KP5L 3D Printer
Set up Klipper Configuration for the KINGROON KP3S 3D Printers and print
How to use 3D Touch on KINGROON KP3S Pro with the Klipper Firmware
After that, you can get the latest Klipper bundles in the below tutorial:
How to Prepare Klipper Firmware for Kingroon KP3S Using Fluiddpi
Part 5 Printing
We will also upload the OrcaSlicer profiles for this version of KP5L (KP5L with All metal hotend and 3D Touch). Then you will be able to slice and print just at the Orslicer.
The upgraded KP5L can print at 100-150mm/s in speed. Since the hotend has been changed, remember to reduce the retraction distance to 0.2-0.4 mm. Or it might have the clogged nozzle issues.