Active Vibration Compensation (AVC) elevates 3D printing by minimizing vibrations that cause artifacts like ringing or ghosting. This tutorial guides you through installing AVC on a compatible 3D printer (e.g., running Klipper or Marlin firmware), ensuring smoother, more precise prints. With clear steps and practical tips, you’ll be ready to upgrade your setup. Let’s get started!
BIGTREETECH ADXL345 V2.0 Accelerometer Board Klipper Input Shaping
What is Active Vibration Compensation?
AVC uses accelerometers and firmware algorithms to detect and counteract vibrations during printing. By analyzing real-time movements, it adjusts motor signals to reduce resonance, delivering cleaner prints, especially at higher speeds. It’s a powerful upgrade for hobbyists and professionals aiming for top-quality results.
Prerequisites
Before you begin, gather:
1. A compatible 3D printer: Supports Klipper, Marlin with resonance compensation, or similar firmware.
2. Accelerometer module: See selection tips below.
3. Microcontroller or control board: Must support accelerometer input (e.g., Raspberry Pi for Klipper).
4. Tools: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, soldering iron (if needed), zip ties, 3M adhesive or screws.
5. Firmware knowledge: Basic familiarity with flashing firmware and editing configs.
6. Computer with internet access: For SSH (Klipper) or firmware uploads (Marlin).
Choosing the Right Accelerometer
HiLetgo GY-291 ADXL345 3-Axis Digital Acceleration
Selecting a suitable accelerometer is crucial for AVC success. Consider these options:
● ADXL345: Affordable ($5–$10), widely supported by Klipper and Marlin, and reliable. Ideal for most users.
● MPU-6050: Includes a gyroscope for advanced setups but requires more configuration. Best for experienced users.
● Cost: Quality sensors range from $5–$15.
● Connection Type: Check for SPI or I2C compatibility with your board. The ADXL345 supports both.
● Size and Sensitivity: Choose a compact, high-sensitivity sensor for accurate vibration detection.
Tips:
● Buy from reputable suppliers to avoid fakes.
● Confirm firmware compatibility (e.g., Klipper’s ADXL345 support is plug-and-play).
● The ADXL345 is a beginner-friendly default.
Safety Precautions
Soldering Iron Kit, 60W Soldering Iron
Working with electronics demands care to protect yourself and your printer:
● Power off the printer: Unplug before handling wires or components to avoid shocks or shorts.
● Avoid static discharge: Use an anti-static wrist strap or touch a grounded metal surface before handling parts.
● Soldering safety: If soldering, work in a ventilated area, wear safety glasses, and keep a fire extinguisher handy.
● Verify connections: Double-check wiring to prevent damage to the accelerometer or board.
● Keep organized: Arrange tools and parts to avoid mishaps like dropping screws into electronics.
Software Setup and Tools
To configure AVC, you’ll need the right software environment. Here’s what to prepare:
● For Klipper:
○ SSH Client: Use PuTTY (Windows) or Terminal (Mac/Linux) to access your Raspberry Pi.
○ Text Editor: Install nano (pre-installed on most Pis) or VS Code for editing printer.cfg.
○ Klipper Firmware: Ensure Klipper is installed (download here).
○ Calibration Script: Klipper’s calibrate_shaper.py is included but requires Python 3.
● For Marlin:
○ IDE: Use PlatformIO or Arduino IDE to compile and flash firmware.
○ Marlin Source: Download the latest Marlin release (marlinfw.org).
○ Text Editor: Notepad++ or VS Code for editing Configuration.h.
● Backup: Save a copy of your current printer.cfg (Klipper) or Marlin configs before editing.
● Internet Access: Needed for downloading updates or troubleshooting via forums.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Step 1: Gather Your Hardware
You’ll need:
● Chosen accelerometer (e.g., ADXL345).
● Connecting cables (Dupont or JST connectors).
● Mounting hardware (3M adhesive or screws).
Ensure your accelerometer matches your firmware and board specs.
Step 2: Mount the Accelerometer
Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Adding+ADXL345+Accelerometer/147745
The accelerometer must be rigidly mounted for accurate readings:
1. Choose the location:
○ Attach to the print head for X-axis measurements, bed for Y-axis (if testing both).
○ Ensure a solid connection to avoid false data.
2. Secure the accelerometer:
○ Use 3M adhesive or screws for a firm mount.
○ Align X, Y, Z markings per the sensor’s datasheet.
3. Route cables:
○ Connect to your control board or Raspberry Pi.
○ Use zip ties to keep cables clear of moving parts.
Step 3: Connect the Accelerometer to Your Control Board
1. Identify the connection method:
○ Klipper: Use SPI or I2C with a Raspberry Pi or control board.
○ Marlin: Check your board’s pinout for accelerometer support.
2. Wiring (example for ADXL345 with Raspberry Pi):
○ VCC → 3.3V
○ GND → Ground
○ SDA → GPIO2 (SDA)
○ SCL → GPIO3 (SCL)
3. Verify connections:
○ Ensure secure, correct wiring.
○ Solder if needed, with clean joints.
Safety Reminder: Power off during wiring.
Step 4: Update Firmware Configuration
Enable AVC in your firmware:
For Klipper Users:
1. Edit printer.cfg:
○ SSH into your Klipper host.
Add:
ini
Copy
[adxl345]
cs_pin: rpi:None # For Raspberry Pi SPI
spi_bus: spidev0.0
○ axes_map: x,y,z
Add input shaper:
ini
Copy
[input_shaper]
shaper_type: mzv
shaper_freq_x: 50 # Placeholder
○ shaper_freq_y: 50 # Placeholder
2. Restart Klipper:
○ Run sudo service klipper restart.
For Marlin Users:
1. Modify Configuration.h:
○ Enable:
cpp
Copy
#define INPUT_SHAPING
○ Set accelerometer pins per your board’s docs.
2. Flash firmware:
○ Compile and upload via PlatformIO or Arduino IDE.
Step 5: Calibrate the Input Shaper
Calibration tunes AVC to your printer’s vibrations:
For Klipper:
1. Run resonance tests:
Enter:
bash
Copy
TEST_RESONANCES AXIS=X
○ TEST_RESONANCES AXIS=Y
○ Data saves to your host.
2. Analyze results:
○ Run:
bash
Copy
python3 ~/klipper/scripts/calibrate_shaper.py /tmp/resonances_x_*.csv -o /tmp/shaper_calibrate_x.png
○ Repeat for Y-axis.
3. Update printer.cfg:
○ Use recommended shaper_type and shaper_freq values.
4. Restart Klipper.
For Marlin:
● Print a resonance test model (e.g., from Thingiverse).
● Adjust SHAPING_FREQ_X and SHAPING_FREQ_Y in Configuration.h.
● Reflash as needed.
Step 6: Test Your Setup
Print a test model like 3DBenchy or a ringing test tower to verify AVC. Check for reduced ringing and smoother surfaces. If issues remain, revisit calibration or mounting.
Comparing Before and After Results
Seeing AVC’s impact is rewarding. Here’s how to evaluate:
● Test Model: Print a 3DBenchy or resonance test tower (find on Thingiverse) before and after AVC.
● What to Check:
○ Ringing: Without AVC, corners show wavy patterns. With AVC, these should nearly vanish.
○ Surface Quality: Expect smoother walls and sharper details.
○ Speed: AVC often supports faster printing (e.g., 80mm/s vs. 60mm/s) with no quality drop.
● Example:
○ Before AVC: A Benchy at 60mm/s has ripples on the hull.
○ After AVC: The same model at 80mm/s is crisp and clean.
● Tip: Photograph prints for comparison. Share on forums to get feedback.
Note: Results vary by printer and calibration, but most see clear improvements.
Troubleshooting Tips
● Noisy data: Check for loose wires or interference. Shield cables if needed.
● Persistent ringing: Try a different shaper_type (e.g., EI) or recalibrate.
● Firmware errors: Verify printer.cfg or Marlin syntax.
● No improvement: Ensure the accelerometer is secure and aligned.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Steer clear of these pitfalls to save time and frustration:
● Misaligning the Accelerometer: Incorrect X, Y, Z orientation leads to bad data. Always check the sensor’s datasheet for markings.
● Skipping Calibration: Running AVC without tuning produces poor results. Always perform resonance tests.
● Loose Mounts: A wobbly accelerometer gives unreliable readings. Use strong adhesive or screws.
● Wrong Wiring: Mismatched pins can damage components. Triple-check connections before powering on.
● Outdated Firmware: Old Klipper or Marlin versions may lack AVC features. Update to the latest release.
Alternative Solutions for Non-Compatible Printers
BIGTREETECH SKR V1.4 Control Board 32bit Upgrade SKR V1.3 Motherboard
If your printer doesn’t support AVC (e.g., due to firmware or board limitations), try these options:
● Mechanical Dampers: Add rubber feet or stepper motor dampers ($5–$20) to absorb vibrations. Less precise than AVC but simple.
● Lower Speeds: Print at 40–50mm/s to reduce vibrations. Sacrifices speed but improves quality.
● Frame Reinforcement: Use braces or thicker rods to stiffen the frame. Common for printers like Ender 3.
● Belt Tuning: Adjust belt tension to minimize resonance. Check for even tension without over-tightening.
● Board Upgrade: Install a Klipper- or Marlin-compatible board (e.g., SKR Mini E3, $30–$60) for AVC support.
● Switch to Klipper: Add a Raspberry Pi and install Klipper for advanced features, including AVC.
Maintaining AVC Performance
To keep AVC working optimally over time:
● Check Mounts: Inspect accelerometer mounts monthly for loosening, especially on high-speed printers. Re-secure with adhesive or screws if needed.
● Recalibrate After Changes: New belts, print heads, or frame mods can alter vibrations. Run resonance tests after upgrades.
● Periodic Testing: Print a ringing test tower every few months to confirm AVC settings are still effective.
● Clean Electronics: Dust can affect connections. Gently clean the accelerometer and board with compressed air.
● Update Firmware: Stay on the latest Klipper or Marlin release for improved AVC algorithms.
Community Resources and Further Reading
● Klipper Documentation: Official guide for Input Shaping (klipper3d.org).
● Marlin Firmware: Setup and configuration details (marlinfw.org).
● ADXL345 Datasheet: Technical specs for wiring and orientation (analog.com).
● Tutorials: Search YouTube for “Klipper Input Shaping” or “Marlin Resonance Compensation” for visual guides.