How to 3D Print a 3D Printer?

3D printing has revolutionized the world of manufacturing, allowing for the creation of intricate and customized parts with ease. One of the most ambitious and exciting projects for any 3D printing enthusiast is to use a 3D printer to create another 3D printer. This guide will delve into the process of 3D printing a 3D printer, from selecting a design to assembling and calibrating your new machine. Additionally, we will provide a list of ten open-source DIY 3D printable 3D printer kits and answer some common questions about the process.

Steps to 3D Print a 3D Printer

1. Choose a Design

Selecting the right design is crucial. There are numerous open-source 3D printer designs available online, each with its own set of features and complexities. When choosing a design, consider your skill level, the required build volume, and the types of materials you want to print with. Popular designs include the Prusa i3, Voron, and HyperCube.

2. Gather Materials and Components

Building a 3D printer from scratch involves sourcing both 3D printed parts and various off-the-shelf components. Here’s a detailed list of what you’ll need:

Frame

The frame is the backbone of your 3D printer, providing structure and stability.

• Aluminum Extrusions: These are popular due to their strength, lightweight nature, and ease of assembly. Common profiles include 20x20mm and 20x40mm extrusions, often used in open-source designs like the Prusa i3.
• Steel Rods: Typically used in conjunction with linear bearings, steel rods can provide precise movement. However, they require accurate cutting and drilling.
• Printed Parts: Some builders opt to print the frame parts using an existing 3D printer. This approach is cost-effective but may sacrifice some rigidity and durability.

Electronics

The electronic components are the brain and nerves of your 3D printer.

• Controller Board: Manages the printer’s operations. Options include:
  • Arduino-based RAMPS Board: Affordable and widely supported by the community.
  • Duet Board: More advanced, offering features like Wi-Fi connectivity and support for multiple extruders.
  • SKR Boards: Known for their power and versatility, compatible with various firmware options.
• Stepper Motors: Provide precise control over the movement of the printer’s axes. Typically, NEMA 17 stepper motors are used.
• Power Supply: Converts AC power from the wall outlet to the DC power needed by the printer. Ensure it can supply sufficient current for all components.
• Wiring and Connectors: Essential for connecting all electronic components. Use quality wires to prevent voltage drops and ensure safety.

Motion Components

These parts enable smooth and accurate movement of the printer’s axes.

• Belts: Used in conjunction with pulleys for the X and Y axes. GT2 belts are common due to their flexibility and precision.
• Pulleys: Attach to the stepper motors to drive the belts.
• Lead Screws: Often used for the Z-axis to provide precise vertical movement.
• Linear Rails: Provide smooth and precise linear motion. Consider using them for higher accuracy and durability.
• Bearings: Reduce friction and wear on moving parts. Linear bearings and radial bearings are commonly used.

Hotend and Extruder

These components work together to melt and extrude the filament.

• Hotend: Heats the filament to its melting point. Popular models include the E3D V6 and the V6 clone.
• Extruder: Feeds the filament into the hotend. Options include:
  • Bowden Extruder: Mounted away from the hotend, reduces moving mass on the print head.
  • Direct Drive Extruder: Mounted directly on the print head, provides more accurate filament control.

Print Bed

The surface on which your 3D prints are built.

• Flat Surface: Essential for print quality. Options include glass, aluminum, or specialized surfaces like PEI sheets.
• Heated Bed: Helps prevent warping and improves adhesion. Ensure it’s capable of reaching the required temperatures for the filaments you intend to use.

Fasteners

Screws, nuts, and bolts are critical for assembling and securing all components.

• Screws: Various lengths and types, such as M3, M4, and M5 screws, are typically used.
• Nuts: Including T-nuts for aluminum extrusions and standard nuts for other parts.
• Bolts: Longer bolts may be needed for specific components or assemblies.

3. Print the Parts

Printing the parts for your new 3D printer is a crucial step in the build process. It’s important to use high-quality filament and follow the recommended settings to ensure the durability and precision of the parts. Here’s a detailed guide to help you through this process:

Preparing for Printing

Before you start printing the parts, there are a few preparatory steps to ensure success:

1. Model Files: Obtain the 3D models for all the parts you need. These can often be found in open-source projects or specific 3D printer designs.
2. Slicing Software: Use reliable slicing software such as Cura, PrusaSlicer, or Simplify3D. Import the model files and configure the print settings according to the recommendations for each part.
3. Printer Calibration: Ensure your existing 3D printer is well-calibrated. This includes leveling the bed, calibrating the extruder steps, and ensuring consistent filament flow.

Selecting the Filament

The type of filament you choose will affect the strength, flexibility, and temperature resistance of the printed parts. Consider the following options:

• PLA (Polylactic Acid):
  • Pros: Easy to print, good dimensional accuracy, biodegradable.
  • Cons: Low heat resistance, can be brittle.
  • Usage: Suitable for parts that don’t need to withstand high temperatures or mechanical stress.
• PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol):
  • Pros: Higher heat resistance than PLA, more flexible, strong, and durable.
  • Cons: Requires careful tuning to avoid stringing and warping.
  • Usage: Ideal for structural components and parts exposed to higher temperatures.
• ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene):
  • Pros: High heat resistance, strong and durable, can be smoothed with acetone.
  • Cons: Prone to warping, requires an enclosed print area with ventilation.
  • Usage: Suitable for high-stress parts and those that need to withstand significant wear and tear.

Recommended Print Settings

Each filament type has its own optimal print settings. Below are general guidelines, but always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the best results:

• PLA:
  • Nozzle Temperature: 190-220°C
  • Bed Temperature: 60-70°C
  • Print Speed: 40-60 mm/s
  • Layer Height: 0.1-0.3 mm
• PETG:
  • Nozzle Temperature: 230-250°C
  • Bed Temperature: 70-90°C
  • Print Speed: 30-50 mm/s
  • Layer Height: 0.1-0.3 mm
• ABS:
  • Nozzle Temperature: 220-250°C
  • Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
  • Print Speed: 30-60 mm/s
  • Layer Height: 0.1-0.3 mm
  • Enclosure: Recommended to maintain consistent temperature and reduce warping.

Printing Process

Follow these steps to print your parts successfully:

1. Prepare the Print Bed: Ensure the print bed is clean and properly leveled. Apply an adhesive if necessary, such as glue stick, hairspray, or a specialized printing surface.
2. Load the Filament: Insert the filament into the printer and ensure it extrudes smoothly.
3. Print the Parts: Start the print job. Monitor the first few layers to ensure proper adhesion and adjust settings if needed.
4. Post-Processing: Once the print is complete, carefully remove the parts from the print bed. Remove any supports and clean up the parts as necessary. Sanding or acetone smoothing (for ABS) can be used to improve the finish.

Quality Control

Inspect each printed part for defects such as warping, layer separation, or under-extrusion. Make sure all dimensions are accurate and that holes and slots are properly formed. If any issues are found, adjust the print settings or reprint the part to ensure it meets the required specifications.

4. Assemble the Printer

Assembling a 3D printer is a meticulous process that requires careful attention to detail. By following the provided assembly instructions and taking your time with each step, you can ensure a successful build and optimal performance of your 3D printer. Here’s an expanded guide to help you through the assembly process:

Frame Construction

The frame is the foundation of your 3D printer, providing stability and support for all other components.

1. Gather Frame Components: Collect all the aluminum extrusions, steel rods, or printed parts as specified in your design.
2. Assembly:
   • Aluminum Extrusions: Use T-nuts and bolts to connect the extrusions. Ensure all corners are square and tight.
   • Steel Rods: Insert into the designated holes or brackets and secure them with screws or clips.
   • Printed Parts: Align and attach the printed parts using screws or other fasteners as specified.
3. Check Alignment: Use a square or a level to ensure the frame is properly aligned. Misalignment can lead to printing issues down the line.

Installing Motion Components

These components are responsible for the precise movement of the printer’s axes.

1. Linear Rails and Bearings: Attach the linear rails to the frame and insert the linear bearings. Ensure they slide smoothly without resistance.
2. Lead Screws and Nuts: Install the lead screws for the Z-axis. Attach the nuts to the moving parts, ensuring they are properly aligned with the lead screws.
3. Belts and Pulleys:
   • Attach Pulleys: Secure the pulleys to the stepper motor shafts. Ensure they are tight and aligned with the belts.
   • Install Belts: Loop the belts around the pulleys and secure them to the frame or moving parts. Adjust the tension so that the belts are tight but not overstretched.
4. Check Movement: Manually move the axes to ensure they slide smoothly without binding or excessive friction.

Wiring the Electronics

Proper wiring is crucial for the safe and effective operation of your 3D printer.

1. Controller Board: Mount the controller board in an accessible location. Connect it to the frame or a dedicated electronics enclosure.
2. Stepper Motors: Connect the stepper motors to the controller board. Use the provided connectors or solder the wires directly.
3. Power Supply: Secure the power supply to the frame. Connect it to the controller board, ensuring you match the voltage and polarity.
4. Wiring and Cable Management: Route the wires neatly to avoid tangling or interference. Use cable ties or cable management sleeves to secure the wires in place.
5. Endstops and Sensors: Install endstops or sensors for each axis. Connect them to the controller board, ensuring they are positioned correctly to detect the limits of each axis.

Attaching the Hotend and Extruder

The hotend and extruder are responsible for feeding and melting the filament to create your prints.

1. Mount the Hotend: Attach the hotend to the print head carriage. Ensure it is secure and properly aligned with the print bed.
2. Install the Extruder:
   • Bowden Extruder: Mount the extruder motor away from the hotend. Connect it to the hotend using a Bowden tube.
   • Direct Drive Extruder: Mount the extruder directly on the print head. Ensure it is aligned with the hotend.
3. Connect Wiring: Connect the hotend thermistor and heater cartridge to the controller board. Secure the wiring to prevent it from getting caught during movement.

Final Adjustments and Calibration

Once the printer is assembled, fine-tuning and calibration are essential for optimal performance.

1. Check Belt Tension: Ensure the belts are properly tensioned. Adjust as needed to avoid slack or excessive tightness.
2. Align Gantry and Bed: Ensure the gantry (X and Y axes) and the print bed (Z axis) are level and parallel. Use a spirit level or calibration tool if necessary.
3. Tighten Screws: Go through the entire printer and tighten any loose screws or bolts. Ensure all components are secure.
4. Firmware Installation: Install the appropriate firmware on the controller board. This might involve connecting the board to a computer and uploading the firmware using software like Arduino IDE or Pronterface.
5. Initial Test: Power on the printer and perform a basic movement test. Use the control interface to move each axis and check for smooth operation.

5. Calibrate and Test

Calibration is a crucial step in ensuring your 3D printer operates accurately and efficiently. Proper calibration involves several steps, each of which contributes to the overall print quality and reliability of your machine. Here’s a detailed guide to help you through the calibration and testing process:

Bed Leveling

A level print bed is essential for the first layer adhesion and overall print quality.

1. Manual Bed Leveling:
   • Home the Printer: Use the printer’s control interface to home all axes, bringing the nozzle to the starting position.
   • Adjust the Screws: Most printers have leveling screws or knobs at each corner of the print bed. Place a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed, and adjust the screws so that there’s a slight resistance when you move the paper.
   • Repeat: Move the nozzle to each corner of the bed and repeat the adjustment process. Ensure consistent resistance at all points.
2. Automatic Bed Leveling(if equipped):
   • Install the Sensor: Ensure your bed leveling sensor (e.g., BLTouch, inductive sensor) is properly installed and connected.
   • Run the Leveling Procedure: Use the printer’s firmware to run the automatic leveling procedure, which measures the height at multiple points on the bed and adjusts accordingly.

Setting the Correct Nozzle Height

The nozzle height, or Z-offset, ensures the correct distance between the nozzle and the print bed.

1. Home the Z-Axis: Use the printer’s interface to home the Z-axis.
2. Adjust the Z-Offset: With the bed leveled, adjust the Z-offset so that the nozzle is the correct distance from the bed. This is often done by placing a piece of paper under the nozzle and adjusting until you feel slight resistance when moving the paper.

Extruder Calibration

Calibrating the extruder ensures that the correct amount of filament is extruded.

1. Mark the Filament: Measure and mark 100mm of filament from where it enters the extruder.
2. Extrude Filament: Use the printer’s interface to extrude 100mm of filament.
3. Measure: Measure the remaining filament to see if exactly 100mm was extruded.
4. Adjust Steps per Millimeter: If the extruded length is incorrect, calculate the new steps per millimeter (current steps/mm * 100 / actual extruded length) and update the firmware or use the printer’s interface to adjust the setting.

Tuning Temperature Settings

Proper temperature settings are essential for good print quality and material adhesion.

1. Nozzle Temperature: Set the nozzle temperature according to the filament manufacturer’s recommendations. Start with the midpoint of the suggested range and adjust based on print quality.
2. Bed Temperature: Set the bed temperature based on the filament type. PLA typically requires 60-70°C, PETG 70-90°C, and ABS 90-110°C.
3. Test Prints: Perform test prints to evaluate the temperature settings. Look for signs of over- or under-extrusion, stringing, or poor layer adhesion and adjust temperatures as needed.

Performing Test Prints

Running simple test prints helps to ensure that all systems are working correctly and allows you to make fine adjustments.

1. Calibration Cube: Print a 20x20x20mm calibration cube to check for dimensional accuracy and quality.
2. First Layer Test: Print a first layer test to ensure proper bed leveling and nozzle height. Adjust settings if the first layer is not smooth and even.
3. Temperature Tower: Print a temperature tower to find the optimal temperature settings for your filament. The tower has sections printed at different temperatures, allowing you to see which temperature produces the best results.
4. Overhang Test: Print an overhang test to evaluate the printer’s ability to handle overhangs and adjust cooling settings if necessary.

Making Necessary Adjustments

Based on the results of your test prints, make the following adjustments:

1. Re-level the Bed: If the first layer test shows inconsistencies, re-level the bed.
2. Adjust Z-Offset: Fine-tune the Z-offset if the first layer is too close or too far from the bed.
3. Refine Extruder Settings: If the calibration cube shows incorrect dimensions, recheck and adjust the extruder steps per millimeter.
4. Optimize Temperature: Adjust the nozzle and bed temperatures based on the results of the temperature tower and other test prints.
5. Cooling Settings: Modify the cooling fan settings if overhangs are not printing correctly.

Top 10 Open Source DIY 3D Printable 3D Printer Kits

1. RepRap Prusa i3

• Description: The Prusa i3 is a well-known and widely used 3D printer design. It is praised for its simplicity, reliability, and large community support.
• Key Features: Modular design, versatile, extensive documentation.
• Print Area: 200 x 200 x 200 mm
• Pros: Easy to build and maintain, customizable, robust performance.
• Cons: Requires regular calibration, basic features compared to newer models.

2. Voron 2.4

• Description: The Voron 2.4 is a high-performance, enclosed CoreXY 3D printer designed for advanced users.
• Key Features: Enclosed build area, high-speed printing, excellent precision.
• Print Area: 300 x 300 x 300 mm
• Pros: High-quality prints, fast, advanced features.
• Cons: Complex assembly, higher cost.

3. HyperCube Evolution

• Description: A CoreXY 3D printer known for its high-speed printing and accuracy.
• Key Features: CoreXY mechanics, sturdy frame, customizable.
• Print Area: 300 x 300 x 300 mm
• Pros: High print speeds, precise, scalable design.
• Cons: More complex to build, higher material cost.

4. D-Bot CoreXY

• Description: A popular CoreXY 3D printer with a strong and customizable design.
• Key Features: CoreXY mechanics, V-slot aluminum frame, modular.
• Print Area: 300 x 300 x 300 mm
• Pros: Fast printing, precise, customizable.
• Cons: Requires precise calibration, more complex assembly.

5. Eustathios Spider V2

• Description: A robust CoreXY 3D printer offering high-quality prints and a sturdy frame.
• Key Features: CoreXY mechanics, robust frame, large build volume.
• Print Area: 300 x 300 x 300 mm
• Pros: Excellent print quality, scalable, durable.
• Cons: Complex build, higher cost.

6. White Knight Belt Printer

• Description: A conveyor belt 3D printer that allows for continuous printing and large objects.
• Key Features: Belt printing, large print volume, continuous printing.
• Print Area: Infinite Z, 200 x 200 mm base
• Pros: Continuous printing, innovative design, large prints.
• Cons: Complex assembly, belt calibration can be tricky.

7. SmartCore

• Description: A simple CoreXY printer with a box frame, offering good print quality.
• Key Features: CoreXY mechanics, sturdy box frame, customizable.
• Print Area: 200 x 200 x 200 mm
• Pros: Easy to build, good print quality, scalable design.
• Cons: Basic features, limited community support.

8. Mendel90

• Description: A reliable and easy-to-assemble 3D printer based on the original Mendel design.
• Key Features: Sturdy frame, reliable performance, large community.
• Print Area: 200 x 200 x 200 mm
• Pros: Simple design, reliable, good community support.
• Cons: Older design, limited features compared to newer models.

9. Delta Rostock Max V2

• Description: A delta printer known for its high-speed and high-precision printing capabilities.
• Key Features: Delta kinematics, large build volume, easy calibration.
• Print Area: 280 x 280 x 400 mm
• Pros: Fast printing speeds, precise prints, large build volume.
• Cons: More complex mechanics, higher learning curve.

10. Vzbot

• Description: A high-speed CoreXY 3D printer designed for precision and reliability.
• Key Features: CoreXY mechanics, sturdy construction, high-speed capabilities.
• Print Area: 300 x 300 x 300 mm
• Pros: Fast printing, precise, durable.
• Cons: Complex assembly, higher material cost.

Key Components for DIY 3D Printer

Frame

The frame is the foundation of the printer, providing stability and support for all other components. DIY printer frames can be made from various materials such as aluminum extrusions, steel rods, or even 3D printed parts. The choice of material affects the rigidity and overall performance of the printer.

Electronics

• Controller Board: The brain of the 3D printer, responsible for managing all functions including motor control, temperature regulation, and communication with the computer. Popular options include RAMPS, Duet, and SKR boards.
• Stepper Motors: These motors provide precise control over the movement of the print head and bed.
• Power Supply: Supplies power to all electronic components. Ensure it meets the voltage and wattage requirements of your setup.
• Endstops and Sensors: Used to detect the position of the print head and bed, ensuring accurate and consistent prints.

Motion Components

• Belts and Pulleys: Commonly used in CoreXY and Cartesian printers for smooth and precise motion.
• Lead Screws: Provide accurate vertical movement, especially important for the Z-axis.
• Linear Rails: Offer precise and smooth movement, commonly used in high-end printers for increased accuracy.

Hotend and Extruder

• Hotend: Heats and melts the filament for extrusion. High-quality hotends can handle a range of materials at different temperatures.
• Extruder: Feeds the filament into the hotend. Direct drive extruders are mounted directly on the hotend, offering better control, especially for flexible filaments.

Print Bed

• Surface: Can be made of glass, metal, or special coatings. A flat and level bed is crucial for good first layer adhesion.
• Heating: Heated beds help with adhesion and reduce warping, especially for materials like ABS and PETG.

Materials and Temperatures

Different materials require different printing temperatures for both the hotend and print bed:

• PLA: Hotend: 190-220°C, Bed: 50-60°C
• ABS: Hotend: 230-250°C, Bed: 90-110°C
• PETG: Hotend: 220-250°C, Bed: 70-90°C
• TPU: Hotend: 210-230°C, Bed: 50-60°C

FAQs

• Is it possible to 3D print a 3D printer?
  • Yes, it is possible to 3D print many of the parts needed for a 3D printer. However, some components, such as electronic parts, motors, and metal rods, must be purchased separately.
• Can I print whatever I want on a 3D printer?
  • You can print a wide variety of objects, limited only by the printer's build volume and the capabilities of the material. However, some designs may be restricted due to intellectual property laws.
• How do I set up a 3D printer to print?
  • Setting up a 3D printer involves assembling the hardware, installing the firmware, calibrating the bed, and configuring the slicer software. Follow the specific instructions provided with your printer kit.
• Can you turn a model into a 3D print?
  • Yes, you can convert a 3D model file (usually in STL or OBJ format) into a 3D print using slicer software that prepares the model for printing by generating G-code instructions for the printer.